La Dolce Vita

We have had a great couple of days in Rome, wandering the streets and seeing the sights. Down almost every street there is a beautiful church hidden somewhere for you to find. You will find ruins and archeological sites that are being restored and history everywhere you look. Yummy cappuccinos and gelato whenever you want. We were told that Italians never drink espresso or cappuccinos after noon. So the tourist are easily recognizable by when they order their coffee. We decided to go up to the Borghese Gardens and walk around. We walked for about an hour and realized that there was no way we would see it all with my bum foot so we rented a golf cart for an hour. We could have rented bikes instead as many people had but still the foot problem. That was fun!!

On our way back to the bus we stopped at the Trevi Fountain and threw our pennies in. It was crowded with tourists so we didn't stay long. Back on the trail to the bus we got lost and ended up at the Pantheon so we went and visited there. Found our tram back and that was our day.

Our dinner that night was one of the best we had in Italy (besides the one we cooked ourselves) because it was an experience not just dinner. Dave found the restaurant in a guide book and it was close to our place so we walked over. We arrived at 8 pm and we were the only ones in the place. The next diners showed up about 9 and the last about 10. I don't know how they can eat so late.

The restaurant is run by a man, his wife and their son. It is definitely a family run business and we felt that. The man explained the history of the building, a medieval Jewish synagogue atop a second century street. The original walls were over 1040 years old and cellar down about 20 steps is 160 years older than the Colosseum. We were able to go down and look around. We ordered their special dish, originally eaten by Julius Caesar, which was pork that was slowly cooked for 5 hours and 18 different spices but not a spicy dish just flavorful. It was a night to remember.

Our last day in Rome took us the Colosseum and more walking around.

There were a number of interesting statues, some more modern than others. Here are a few that I saw today.

We would like to thank you for letting us share our holiday with you all. We loved getting your comments and it made us feel like we were in touch with you all. See most of you soon back in Edmonton. We leave Rome tomorrow. Arrivederci Italy!!

We are staying in Trastevere, which is separated from the rest of the old city by the river. It is a picturesque neighborhood that has maintained its own beauty since ancient times, when it was simply called Trans Tiberim ("across the Tiber"). Here are a few photos of our appartamento and alley.

These are the two ladies that I took a picture of two years ago. We wondered if they would be sitting in their plastic chairs at the end of little street at 5 pm. Like clockwork there they sat. A few of their friends joined them.

A couple of nuns were strolling down the street to San Maria in Trastevere. They agreed to have their photo taken and seemed tickled about the request.

These photos are for Matt. Along the river (tiber) many bars set up in the summer. This one was called "The Scrum".

We continued our stroll through Piaazza Navona and Campo de Fiori.

Before we knew we were at the river and had the Vatican in sight and St. Peters (Basilica San Pietro). Strolled back home on a warm night. Perfect.

After our cooking class we saw a poster for some sort of event in a square very close to our B and B. So we wandered over there and waited. We didn't know for what but many were waiting so we joined in. Well what came marching through the square but many men in tights, marching bands, flag throwers and people dressed in period costumes.

What period in time we do not know. What we were going to watch was a crossbow competition, Torneo Nazionale della Balestra, as it would have been many years ago. There were three towns represented. Lucca, San Marino, and Massa Marittima each had a group of people to represent them.

Each of the men had one chance to shoot an arrow from their crossbow and the team with the most points would win, which turned out to be San Marino. The little man in a green coat and of course tights was delighted when his team won.

After this competition there was an individual one for about 9 (three from each team) men. Each shot at a single target and the closest to the center was the winner. An italian man kept lending us his binoculars so we could get a close look at the targets. The important men displayed the target to all of the peasants (us) in the audience.

Main ingredients and sauces was the title of our class and Jordan asked us why we wanted to take this class. Why not the pizza and pasta class? Once we get home and teach him what we learned, he will know why we selected this class.

Chef Paolo began our class telling us about the herbs used in Italian cooking, about the various flours, and the rices used.

He told us they get flour from Manitoba because it is high in gluten. Next, we learned about the various kinds of olive oils and tasted them all with bread. The olive oil that is grown closest to the sea has a milder taste than those grown farther inland. The color of the oil changed from pale to golden yellow and we could definitely taste the difference. To be labeled Olio Extra Vergine di Oliva (extra virgin olive oil) it must be processed within 24 hours in a cold-pressed manner. If there is a label with DOP and a number, it a good oil. So check where the olive oil is from on the bottle and you can guess how strong it will taste.

Our favorite recipe of the day and one of the basic sauces is called Salsa di pomodori freschi or sauce made with fresh tomoto, garlic and basil.

You can make it tonight and here is how.

• smash a garlic cloves
• add to olive oil in the pan (lots of it - about 8 T)
• add cherry tomatoes cut if half about 600 g.

• Cover and cook at medium-low heat for 20-30 minutes. Stir often.
• it will magically thicken
• add small bunch of basil (sliced not chopped)
• add a bit more olive oil just because it's tasty
• Add freshly cooked fettuccine and simmer for 2-3 minutes
• add salt & pepper to taste
• remove from the fire (as Chef Monti says) and wait for 2 minutes before adding freshly grated parmigiano reggiano (6 oz). If you add it over the heat it will make a sticky mess on the bottom of the pan.

If you want to try it, go ahead or we will cook you an Italian feast when we return to Canada.

What we noticed is that all the recipes use simple ingredients, fresh herbs and not many spices. Good, fresh ingredients to start and of course the Tuscan sun may have something to do with the delicious taste of everything. Our chef was informative and funny.

Since we were the only ones in the class, we were very lucky and learned a lot.

The day started with learning to make brodo di pollo (basic chicken stock),

which we later used in almost all the other recipes, salsa di pomodoro (tomato sauce) and ragu alla bolognese (classic italian meat sauce). Our antipasti appetizers included a number of bruschettas, our first course was three different pastas, and our secondi main courses were pollo alla cacciatora (chicken) and another favorite of the day, pork tenderloin in cream and lemon sauce.

After a morning of cooking we sat down to have our antipasti and pasta courses. Red and white wine was available as well as acqua (water).

We had finished up and we thought we were done and Chef Paolo said, "Come on we have more to cook." So back into the kitchen to make the second course. And finally, to prepare tiramisu al caffe, the sweet dolchi to finish our meal. Bonissimo!!

A perfect evening in Lucca, Italy. Perfect temperature with a slight breeze blowing. What's the big event? Elton John in concert at Piazza Navonne and we were there to see him.

So much fun to sing along with the Italians to Rocket Man and Crocodile Rock. It was a bit surreal standing there seeing Elton John in person for the first time. Dave thought he looked so short and had chubby little singers. Together with his band, Elton was having a great time on stage. He had two cellist from Croatia playing along and they almost stole the show.

He played for 2 1/2 hours without stopping. A night to remember forever.

We are staying at Il Seminario Bed and Breakfast in Lucca. A spacious room and very welcoming owner Paolo and Mauela.

A delicious breakfast and a stroll around the wall that surrounds Lucca. It is about 5 km around and so many families were out walking or riding the loop.

We decided to take the bus up into the Tuscan Hills to a place called Barga.

We walked around the old town in which all streets lead up to the top. The road to Barga was like driving to Tofino (very windy, lots of twists and turns) and the mountains seemed similar to the Alps just greener. The trees grow to the tops of the mountains. We had a speculator view down into the valley.

Everyone should have a siesta each day just like this guy. He knows how to do it right!!

A another delicious dinner with two dishes that are local specialties. A salad of tomatoes, onions, basil and bread cubes called panzanella and tortelli luchenese which is meat filled pasta pillows, topped with meat sauce.

Saturday was a lazy kind of day, strolling the streets, riding bikes around the wall and through the town. Enjoying life....La Dolce Vita.

Tomorrow we have a cooking class with a local Italian chef. He told us to have a light breakfast because we are cooking 14 different things.